Hiring a licensed master plumber gives you the benefit of top-level training, experience, and professionalism. Master plumbers undergo years of hands-on work — typically seven or more — in addition to passing a rigorous licensing exam. After progressing from apprenticeship to journeyman, only the most experienced plumbers qualify to become master plumbers.
Because they understand local building codes inside and out, master plumbers ensure all installations and repairs are done correctly and to code. Hiring an unlicensed handyman may seem cheaper at first, but if work is done improperly, you could face expensive problems or code violations down the line.
Master plumbers not only perform the work — they also oversee and inspect jobs carried out by apprentices and journeymen, and they guarantee it’s done right. Reputable companies employ insured master plumbers who stand behind their work and protect you as a homeowner.
Your home’s plumbing system is too important to leave to chance. Whether you need a minor fix or a full replacement, be sure to hire a licensed, experienced plumber — like the professionals at L.F. Fenimore Plumbing and HVAC.
Noticing yellow or rusty water coming from your faucets? Red stains in fixtures or a metallic taste and odor are usually signs of excess iron in your water supply. While small amounts of iron are normal, higher levels can cause water to turn yellow and leave stains around sinks, tubs, and toilets. It’s generally safe to drink — just not very appealing — so it’s best to call a plumber to diagnose and resolve the issue before it worsens.
Owning a home often means rolling up your sleeves for DIY repairs — and with so many online tutorials, tackling plumbing projects yourself can be tempting. But not every job should be a weekend project. Some repairs require more time, tools, and expertise than the average homeowner has.
Cost is usually the biggest factor. While doing it yourself may save on labor, even small mistakes can lead to expensive fixes later. Simple tasks like replacing a faucet gasket may be worth trying on your own, but if you’re unsure how to proceed — or the job is more complex — calling a professional is usually the smarter move.
Licensed plumbers bring years of training, proper tools, and knowledge of local building codes. They pull permits, schedule inspections, and make sure the work is done safely and correctly the first time.
When in doubt, we recommend giving us a call at (609) 624-9023 — whether it’s a quick fix or a major repair. We’re always happy to handle the job or offer tips to help your DIY go smoothly.
Hard water contains high levels of dissolved minerals like calcium and magnesium. As water moves through soil and rock, it picks up these minerals — which can be healthy to drink but tough on your home. Hard water often leaves spots on dishes, creates soap scum in showers, dulls laundry, builds scale in pipes and appliances, and reduces efficiency over time.
Soft water has little to no mineral content, either naturally or due to a water softener. While it may taste slightly salty and isn't always preferred for drinking, it’s much better for cleaning. Soft water helps soap lather easily, leaves dishes and clothes cleaner, protects appliances, and lowers energy usage.
In short: hard water is mineral-rich and safe to drink, but can wear down your home — soft water is gentler on your plumbing, laundry, and cleaning routines.
If you’re dealing with low water pressure, start with a few simple checks:
Older galvanized pipes (30–50 years) often develop heavy internal calcium and mineral buildup over time. These deposits reduce the inside diameter of the pipe, restricting water flow — similar to rocks slowing down a stream. Unfortunately, this buildup can’t be cleaned out, and the water piping must be replaced.
If your home has galvanized plumbing and you choose to replace it, it’s usually more cost-effective to replace the entire system (vertical and horizontal runs) at once, since setup and demolition are a significant portion of the labor cost.
In some cases, low pressure comes from a worn-out galvanized main valve stuck halfway open; with age, the internal gate mechanism can seize or break, even if the handle still turns. If this happens, the valve will need to be replaced to restore proper water flow.
If you’re looking to add a bathroom but your sewer line sits at a higher elevation than the fixtures (meaning gravity won’t do the work), a sewage ejector system is a great solution.
This setup involves installing a small basin below floor level that collects wastewater. Once the basin fills, a grinder pump automatically turns on and pushes the waste up to the height of the main sewer line. The horsepower of the pump depends on how far and high the waste needs to travel.
In some cases, you may still be able to rely on gravity if the sewer line, although uphill, is buried deep enough. The best option should be determined by a professional estimator who can evaluate your site and recommend the right solution.
Wells rarely freeze because they are drilled deep below the frost line, which varies by region (typically 32–48 inches). To prevent freezing, the supply pipe from the well to your home should also be buried below this line.
There are two common types of well pumps:
Deep well pumps sit near the bottom of the well and push water into the house. They can collect sand and silt, so regular maintenance is needed.
Jet pumps are located in the house or basement and pull water from the well. These must stay in areas above 40°F or be housed in insulated enclosures to prevent freezing. Additionally, water lines should be insulated with pipe sleeves to protect against cold temperatures.
You can take steps before cold weather to prevent frozen pipes. Start by disconnecting, draining, and storing garden hoses. If your home has interior shut-off valves for outdoor faucets, close them, then open the exterior faucet to drain any remaining water. Leaving the faucet open allows any leftover water to expand safely without bursting the pipe.
You can also insulate water supply lines in unheated areas, such as basements, crawl spaces, attics, garages, and under kitchen or bathroom cabinets, to further protect your pipes from freezing.
Pipes can burst for several reasons, leading to costly flooding and damage. The four main causes are: frozen pipes, pipe movement, high water pressure, and corrosion.
1. Frozen Pipes
Cold temperatures can freeze water inside pipes. As water freezes, it expands, increasing pressure and causing the pipe to burst — often at a weak joint. To prevent this, allow faucets to drip slowly, insulate exposed pipes, keep indoor temperatures above 55°F, and open cabinet doors to circulate warm air.
2. Pipe Movement / Water Hammer
If pipes aren’t properly secured, they can shift when water is suddenly turned on or off. This movement, known as water hammer, weakens joints over time and can cause a pipe to fail. Properly securing pipes can prevent damage.
3. High Water Pressure
Excessive water pressure can strain pipes and fixtures. Most homes maintain 30–50 psi, and pressures above 60 psi increase the risk of bursts. A plumber can install a pressure-reducing valve if needed.
4. Corrosion
Over time, pipes can corrode due to water chemistry, hard water, or aging materials. Corrosion weakens the pipe wall, narrowing the diameter and eventually causing leaks or bursts.
If a pipe does burst, it’s crucial to identify the cause to prevent future issues. Licensed plumbers can inspect your system, adjust water pressure, and handle repairs safely. Professional cleanup and drying services can also protect your home from water damage.
Many homeowners wonder how to prevent frozen pipes, and simply turning off the water isn’t enough. Be sure to disconnect garden hoses so water can drain from the pipes, reducing the risk of freezing. Additionally, cover outdoor faucets with a styrofoam insulation kit, available at most home improvement stores, to help protect them during cold weather.
Signs of frozen pipes include little to no water coming from faucets, frost visible on exposed pipes, or unusual odors coming from drains. If you suspect a pipe is frozen, turn off the main water supply and call a plumber right away to prevent a burst.
Clogged toilets are common, but most can be fixed with a few simple steps:
Stop overflow – Lift the tank lid and close the flapper valve or shut off the water supply.
Use a plunger – A toilet plunger (with a deep cup) works best. Start gently, then plunge more forcefully until the clog clears.
Try a toilet auger or plumbing snake – These tools can break up or pull out tougher blockages.
>Use hot water and dish soap – Pour soap into the bowl, wait a few minutes, then add hot water to help loosen the clog.
When to call a plumber: If water backs up into sinks or tubs when you flush, or if plunging and snaking don’t work, you may have a bigger issue in the sewer line. That’s when it’s best to call a licensed professional for help.
Clogged toilets are common, but most can be fixed with a few simple steps:
1. Stop overflow – Lift the tank lid and close the flapper valve or shut off the water supply.
2. Use a plunger – A toilet plunger (with a deep cup) works best. Start gently, then plunge more forcefully until the clog clears.
3. Try a toilet auger or plumbing snake – These tools can break up or pull out tougher blockages.
4. Use hot water and dish soap – Pour soap into the bowl, wait a few minutes, then add hot water to help loosen the clog.
When to call a plumber: If water backs up into sinks or tubs when you flush, or if plunging and snaking don’t work, you may have a bigger issue in the sewer line. That’s when it’s best to call a licensed professional for help.
Converting a toilet to dual flush is a project that many DIYers can handle, but if you’re unsure, a professional plumber can help. Start by researching dual-flush conversion kits online, which typically include all the parts you’ll need.
Set aside about an hour to complete the conversion. Turn off the water supply, remove the tank cover, and flush to empty the tank. Remove the old flapper, chain, and flush handle, then disconnect the fill tube. Install the new flush tower mechanism over the existing overflow tube using the provided washer and zip tie. Attach the dual-flush button unit through the old handle hole, connect the flush cable, and reattach the refill tube. Turn the water back on and test both flush settings. Adjust the flush tower as needed for optimal performance and mark the water level to check for leaks.
Dual-flush toilets save water, typically using 0.8 gallons for the small flush and 1.6 gallons for the full flush. While replacing your toilet with a new dual-flush model is an option, converting your existing toilet is often more cost-effective. Be sure to choose a conversion kit compatible with your toilet to avoid performance issues.
If you prefer, a professional plumber can handle the conversion and ensure everything works properly.
If your toilet is leaking at the base, stop using it immediately, as the water may be unsanitary and could damage the subfloor. First, check that the leak isn’t coming from higher up on the toilet.
Often, leaks at the base are caused by loose t-bolts. Remove the plastic covers and carefully tighten the bolts without overtightening. Another common cause is a worn wax ring. To replace it, turn off the water, disconnect the supply line, remove the toilet, clean off the old wax ring, and install a new one. Reset the toilet, tighten the t-bolts, reconnect the water, and test for leaks.
If these steps don’t resolve the issue, call a professional plumber for assistance.
A foul odor when flushing usually indicates the toilet’s wax ring isn’t properly sealed to the floor. When water enters the drain, it displaces air in the pipes. If the wax ring is compromised, that air — along with sewer gases — can escape into the bathroom instead of flowing through the drain and up the vent stack. A blocked main vent can also trap air and worsen odors. To resolve the issue, reseal the toilet to the floor and ensure the vent is clear of any obstructions.
This isn’t just a simple clog — it’s likely a blockage in the branch line between your bathroom and the main sewer. A professional plumber will be needed to clear and clean the drain. If there isn’t a clean-out port large enough for a 3-inch cable, the technician may need to remove the toilet to properly snake the line.
Loud faucet noises can be caused by several issues, most commonly water hammer, which occurs when water stops abruptly in the pipes. This can make pipes bang against walls or wood.
Common causes include:
Loose pipes: Secure them with clips to reduce movement.
Damaged air chambers: These cushion water flow; if filled with water, they can’t function properly.
High water pressure: Above 80 psi can cause noise; test with a gauge or hire a plumber to adjust.
Faulty washers: Whistling or squealing may indicate a loose or wrong-sized washer—adjust or replace it.
Pipe buildup: Older iron or galvanized pipes can accumulate scale, sometimes requiring replacement by a licensed plumber.
Addressing these issues can eliminate most faucet noises and protect your plumbing system.
If your outdoor hose bib runs even when turned off, it usually means the gasket needs replacing or the valve seat is worn. The valve seat is the brass opening the gasket seals against, and leaks can create tiny channels in its surface. If the seat is damaged, the faucet typically needs to be replaced, as most valve seats are integrated and not individually replaceable.
Low or no water flow is often caused by simple blockages. Start by cleaning faucet strainers and flushing the tops of toilet fill valves. Debris from city water system maintenance can travel through your pipes, clogging faucets and valves. Clearing these obstructions usually restores proper water flow.
Save Water and Money with a Low-Flow Faucet Aerator
Many water-saving habits—like taking shorter showers, turning off the tap while brushing, or not overfilling the sink—help reduce water use. But installing a low-flow faucet aerator is an easy, highly effective way to save water and energy.
How It Works
The average faucet flows at about 2.2 gallons per minute. A 20-second hand wash uses nearly three-quarters of a gallon. A low-flow aerator reduces flow to 1.5 gallons per minute or less, cutting water use by roughly one-third. For the average household, this saves about 700 gallons per year—equivalent to 40 showers.
Aerators mix air into the water stream, maintaining strong water pressure so your daily tasks feel unchanged. They also reduce energy costs: less hot water means your water heater runs less, saving electricity—about as much as running a hair dryer for 10 minutes each day for a year.
Choosing the Right Aerator
Not all aerators are equal. Look for the WaterSense label, which meets EPA standards for flow (1.5 gpm or less) and water quality. Even if you already have an aerator, an updated model can significantly improve efficiency.
Black water can have several causes, and water testing is essential to pinpoint the issue. Common culprits include minerals like magnesium and iron, algae, degraded pipes, and resin beads from water softeners.
Magnesium and iron in water can turn black when exposed to oxygen. If your toilet tank appears black inside, these minerals are likely the cause. They’re generally harmless, but a water filter or softener can remove the discoloration.
Older steel or galvanized pipes can release mineral flakes, and under certain conditions, these can darken the water. Resin beads from a water softener can also escape into the plumbing if the system breaks down.
A professional plumber can diagnose the source and recommend the appropriate solution.
Common Causes of a Leaky Faucet
A dripping faucet can be more than a nuisance—it can raise your water bill and signal underlying problems. Common causes include worn O-rings, washers, gaskets, corrosion, and mineral buildup.
Troubleshooting a Leak
Locate the source of the leak to identify the problem.
O-Rings: These small rubber rings around the valve stem can become loose or damaged. Leaks beneath the handle often indicate worn O-rings. Replacing them, sometimes with plumber’s grease, often resolves the issue. Leaks at the spout base may require replacing two O-rings, or the entire faucet if the spout is heavily pitted.
Corroded Valve Seat: Older brass seats could be resurfaced, but modern plastic seats require replacing the entire unit.
Loose or Damaged Washer: A worn or loose seat washer can cause dripping. In newer faucets, plastic cartridges or seats with springs may need replacement.
Disc Cartridge Faucets: Inlet and outlet seals can wear out. Cleaning sediment or replacing seals can stop leaks.
Still Leaking?
If these repairs don’t solve the problem, the faucet may need replacement. A professional plumber can repair or replace your faucet, and you can provide any faucet you prefer, ensuring it fits your sink’s mounting holes.
Dealing with wet carpet after a flood or leak is stressful, but quick action is critical to prevent mold and permanent damage. Here are the key steps:
Step 1: Remove the Water
Use a wet-dry vacuum, pump, or towels to extract as much water as possible. Continue until no more water can be pulled from the carpet.
Step 2: Dry the Room
Remove wet furniture and use fans, dehumidifiers, or AC to speed drying. Open windows if weather permits.
Step 3: Check Carpet & Padding
Carpet may be salvageable, but padding often isn’t—especially with greywater contamination. Remove and dispose of wet padding so the subfloor can dry.
Step 4: Clean Thoroughly
Only clean once everything is completely dry. Professionals can test for hidden moisture, sanitize, and restore your carpet while working directly with insurance companies.
Pro Tips:
Monitor areas that have flooded before.
Inspect pipes and appliances regularly.
Keep L.F. Fenimore Plumbing and HVAC's number handy for emergencies.
When plumbing fixtures fail, storms hit, or drains clog, water and sewage can quickly damage walls, floors, and belongings. Immediate cleanup is essential to prevent costly damage and health risks.
If flooding occurs:
Shut off water if needed
Cut power to affected areas
Remove electronics, furniture, and valuables
Document all damage
Call a professional restoration service like L.F. Fenimore Plumbing and HVAC
Our IICRC-certified technicians provide rapid water extraction, drying, disinfecting, and debris removal using professional-grade equipment. We also work directly with your insurance company to ease the process.
L.F. Fenimore Plumbing and HVAC is available 24/7/365 to restore your home or business quickly and safely.
With the right equipment, a wet-dry vacuum can help with small-scale flood cleanup. Always turn off water and power, move furniture and electronics, and document damage before starting.
Wet-dry vacs are designed to safely collect liquids, but be cautious with the power cord. Larger or pump-style models can speed up water removal.
For bigger floods, call L.F. Fenimore Plumbing and HVAC Our IICRC-certified water restoration experts use professional-grade drying and disinfecting methods to protect against mold, mildew, and odors—restoring your home quickly and safely.
Drying water-damaged furniture can be difficult, and often, padded furniture cannot be fully salvaged. While restoration companies like L.F. Fenimore Plumbing and HVAC use water extraction and drying equipment on salvageable materials, cushions and padding typically retain moisture in the middle, promoting mold and mildew. Gray or black water contamination makes furniture permanently unsalvageable.
L.F. Fenimore Plumbing and HVAC's approach
Our experienced team works quickly with you and your insurance company to minimize stress. Services include water extraction, removal of unsalvageable items, cleaning, deodorizing, and thorough drying of structures and salvageable contents. We also document all damage with photos for insurance purposes and safely haul away debris.
With L.F. Fenimore Plumbing and HVAC, your home is restored efficiently, safely, and as quickly as possible after a flood.
Using your furnace to dry flood-affected rooms is not the most effective method. While some homeowners try alternating heat and air conditioning, it must be closely monitored and is generally less efficient than professional drying techniques.
Homeowner Method (Optional, Use With Caution):
Close all windows and doors.
Turn on the central AC to remove humidity.
Once air is dry, turn off AC and turn on the heat to around 80°F.
Turn heat off and turn AC back on briefly to normalize air.
Professional Approach:
L.F. Fenimore Plumbing and HVAC water restoration experts recommend using industrial dehumidifiers and high-speed fans. These are arranged to control humidity, accelerate drying, and prevent mold. Each home is unique, so we create a customized monitoring plan to ensure thorough drying.
Our certified equipment remains on-site until moisture, temperature, and humidity readings meet approved standards, ensuring your home and contents are fully restored safely and efficiently.
Cleaning up a flooded basement is time-consuming and costly—and recurring floods can be even worse. To prevent future flooding, it’s essential to address the root cause and perform regular maintenance. Many of these steps can be taken before a flood occurs.
Indoors:
Check floor drains regularly: Keep drains free of debris to ensure proper water flow.
Install a sump pump: Direct groundwater into a sump pit and out to a storm drain. Consider a battery backup in case of power outages.
Outdoors:
Keep gutters clear: Remove leaves and debris to prevent overflow and ice dams.
Extend downspouts: Drain water at least 6–10 feet from your home.
Cover basement window wells: Prevent water, debris, and pests from entering while allowing light in.
All Around:
Inspect foundation, floors, and walls for cracks and seal them promptly with epoxy.
If flooding persists, call L.F. Fenimore Plumbing and HVAC. Our licensed plumbers can quickly locate and repair leaks, sump pump issues, and other plumbing emergencies. We provide immediate service for major water problems and routine maintenance for minor leaks.
Call L.F. Fenimore Plumbing and HVAC at (609) 624-9023 for expert basement plumbing and flood prevention services.
Heating water can be a significant part of your energy bill, but there are simple steps to reduce costs:
Take showers instead of baths: Showers use less water than full baths.
Shorten shower time: Every minute counts—cutting time in the shower reduces hot water usage.
Lower water heater temperature: Even a few degrees can save money over time.
Turn off water when not in use: Don’t let hot water run while washing dishes or scrubbing.
Insulate your heater and pipes: Keeps water hotter longer and reduces energy loss.
For bigger savings, consider upgrading to a newer, energy-efficient water heater. Tankless or hybrid models provide hot water on demand and use less energy. Also, energy-efficient dishwashers and washing machines can further reduce water heating costs.
Yes. Cold temperatures can cause the metal in your water heater to expand and contract, which may lead to damage or leaks—especially in older units or those in unheated areas. Sediment buildup and general maintenance also affect how hard your water heater works.
Leaky water heaters can go unnoticed, potentially damaging walls and floors. Regular inspection is key: check around and under the unit for leaks and examine the tank for bends, cracks, or protrusions.
If you notice water taking longer to heat or running out too quickly, it could indicate a larger problem. Some minor steps you can try include adjusting the thermostat, adding insulation, or flushing the tank. For more serious concerns, call a professional plumber like L.F. Fenimore Plumbing and HVAC. Our technicians can assess your water heater and recommend repair or replacement if needed.
The cost of replacing a water heater depends on several factors, such as the brand, model, and energy source of the new unit, along with installation requirements. A licensed plumber will provide a clear estimate and timeline upfront, so you’ll know exactly what your water heater replacement will cost and when it will be ready for use.
Most manufacturers suggest draining your water heater once a year to prevent sediment buildup. Depending on water hardness, usage, and the age of your tank, more frequent flushing may be needed. Our licensed plumbers can handle professional water heater flushes to keep your system running efficiently.
Traditional water heaters typically last 8–10 years, though lifespan depends on unit quality, maintenance, and water conditions. Tankless models can last up to 20 years with proper care and upkeep.
We install and service traditional tank water heaters, tankless water heaters, and energy-efficient models to fit your home’s hot water needs and budget.